I started filtering out places where I can go out for a day or two to just enjoy the scenic beauty and lower my craving for a bike trip since long. I wanted to go a place where there were less crowd as it was a scorching heat in NCR and everyone seem to elope to a hillstation.
Out of the list, Mukteshwar was finalized as I hadn't been there ever and the distance also seemed fair for a bike ride. We were four of us Ashish, Anurag, Sumit and myself, who started on two bikes, my Bajaj Pulsar 200 NS and Ashish's Royal Enfield 350 Classic.
Late night riding to Hapur
We started our trip late night from Noida home around 12:30 AM. The plan was to reach Kathgodam by morning ( a distance of ~270kms) so that we can start ascending further in the morning hours.
Noida to Rampur was a simple stretch with well laid roads via NH 24 - NH 9 - Moradabad Bareilly Expressway. Only few drizzles along the way which made the ride more pleasant.
Some lightning and scattered thunderstorms
At Rampur, 5:00 AM
Fields near Rampur
After Rampur, around 5 AM in the morning, the road conditions changed drastically with 1-2 feet long potholes and broken down road. The 35 KM stretch of Rampur to Rudrapur was so bad, it took us 1.5hr to cross it.
After crossing Rudrapur, there is a left turn which turns towards the Haldwani road and the road is suddenly engulfed in a forest with trees overshadowing the entire road. That was one wonderful experience as the road was full of flora all way along.
Rudrapur to Haldwani
Can't miss to click this!
We reached Kathgodam at 6AM. The first sight of the Kumaon hills add more to the excitement within. Mukteshwar was 65KMs from here now.
We started our ascend in order to reach our destination by 10. From Ranibagh (2kms) the road towards right takes you to Mukteshwar. The straight road would take you to Nainital. We crossed Bhimtal, then took a right U-turn from Kutani towards Bhatelia-Dhanachuli road. After Kutani the clouds surrounded the hilly roads and it started drizzling along the way.
Near Kutani
We took a small halt under a shade near Dhanachuli as it started raining heavily and it was difficult to ride. Some pics that we took here are below:
Captivating view!
After Dhanchuli, you have to turn towards left for Bhatelia. We reached Mukteshwar at around 9:30 AM. After checking-in to the Homestay, we went for a stroll in the town and returned after having lunch.
Our Homestay at Mukteshwar
Beautiful Flora at homestay
The dining area
Mukteshwar, being a very small town in the district of Nainital, is loved by tourists who are looking for crowd-free and small escape hill station. Mukteshwar is famous for a temple named after Shiv (Mukti-Eeshwar). There is "Choli ki Jaali" which is famous for its mountain rocks and cliffs overlooking the valley. After visiting these we came back to have a nap.
At "Choli ki Jaali"
At "Choli ki Jaali"
At evening when we woke up, the warm sunset right outside the window welcomed us. It was so soothing and relieving to see such a warm sight after so long. I was really craving for such moments. Sipping evening tea with a sunset view atop a hill.
Beautiful sunset view from homestay
Had dinner outside at a cafe on the outskirts. We tried "Bhatt ki Churdkani", a local Kumaoni dish made from black beans. It was good.
Bhatt ki Churkani, a Kumaoni delicacy
Had bonfire at night
At night we had a bonfire and just sat back and relaxed our souls in the warmth of the bonfire and listening to the clear audible sounds of the nature, winds rustling through the trees and any honk of a vehicle from the valley. It was so quiet and serene that you could listen to people talking to each other at a distance. Exactly what I was looking for - Peace.
how can Maggi be missed here!
We sat near the bonfire till 1 AM in the night and then went to get some sleep.
In the morning, we got up to have our breakfast and it was the day to head back to Noida after pitstopping at known landmarks on the way. We went for a short trek to Mukteshwar temple and then had to start our day.
Morning breakfast - "Aloo ke Gutkhe" with tea.
On way to Mukteshwar Temple
Mukteshwar Temple
Started at 11:30 AM after enquiring about places to visit on the route, we took the road via Bhowali. It was such a pleasant drive through in the Bhowali ranges. Some pictures from the drive:
Leaving Mukteshwar
Bhowali Hills
We reached Bhimtal at 1PM but it was too crowdy and cars jammed the roads. We didn't stay there for long and moved forward to Naukuchiatal. It was much better staying at homestay at Mukteshwar than visiting these places as they were really crowded.
view of Bhimtal from a distance
Didn't stay for quite long at Naukuchiatal too. We started our return journey to Kathgodam and reached the same at 4:30PM. After having lunch at the outskirts of Haldwani, we headed back to Noida. Reached Noida home at 9:30 PM.
It was really a much needed break for me and Mukteshwar proved to be a perfect spot to enjoy the calmness and beauty of Mother Nature.
Day 1 - 20th June, 2015
Abhishek and myself got up at 4 AM in the morning and started getting ready for the trip. My parents were also in Noida who had come for a visit and also got a chance to bid adieu to us for the trip. My mother was not all in for my bike trip. Even the relatives opposed to my idea of riding on own bike, instead insisted on taking a car or bus. But to enjoy it fully, you have to be out of the box (a car or bus) and in closeness to nature.
I had to convince my mother of giving her timely whereabouts during the trip so that she doesn't get too much worried. Finally after everything being packed and Viaterra being tied on the pillion seat of the bikes, Abhishek and Myself set out for the trip by 4:30 A.M.
The first priority was to cross Delhi ASAP as it gets really hard to drive through heavy traffic of Delhi. We were taking the NH1 via Karnal-Kurukshetra-Chandigarh.
Refueling near Panipat
The first priority was to cross Delhi ASAP as it gets really hard to drive through heavy traffic of Delhi. We were taking the NH1 via Karnal-Kurukshetra-Chandigarh. The sky was clear and sun was out, bright and shining.
After Sonipat, it became a bit cloudy and we expected showers ahead. Had breakfast at a dhaba near Karnal. The food was typical Punjabi. We ordered butter parathas as we had been riding for 150kms with just 2-3 pitstops and few breads that we had at home in the morning.
a small water body beside the dhaba
It was already 9 A.M. when we started from Dhaba. Next destination was Chandigarh. With just 2-3 pitstops in between, we managed to reach Chandigarh by 11.
shot at few kms from Chandigarh
Lola, my Bajaj Pulsar 200NS
Although we didn't enter the city, but it took us 1 hour to drive through Panchkula and reach the Pinjore road. We were going to take the road via Nalagarh and then start our ascend into the Himalayas.
Mandi was still 150 kms ahead of us and Manali, 250kms. And we knew that after ascent, the speed is going to slow down due to curvy hilly roads, so it would be late night until we reach Manali. It was sunny but the zeal kept us going.
At Nalagarh, we had a bit of a detour and had to struggle finding the proper directions. After confirming from a local, we made it to the road leading to Mandi. But yet again, we took a wrong turn (thanks to Google Maps), as it showed a shortcut to reach Mandi and we thought we shall take it.
But it was a lesson of a lifetime for me : "There are no shortcuts in the himalayas. Follow the highways only." This shortcut cost us 3 hours and we could only cover 30 odd kms on this bumpy and unadopted (one that is not under maintenance by govt.) road.
Somewhere between Bilaspur and Mandi, near Jarol.
Finally after 4 hours we managed to reach Mandi by 6 PM. Too tired from the road behind, a break was necessary, so we halted for next half an hour.
The mighty Beas.
At Mandi, Beas river behind.
Still 100 kms to Manali
After some refreshments, we started from Mandi. Midway there were landslides as it had rained last night.
Construction on roads near Mandi
Finally, some eye soothening views after a tiresome journey.
It was getting dark and by no chance we felt that we would be in Manali in time. But we went on as we cannot stop anywhere between else it would hamper the plans for the days ahead. So this Mandi-Manali stretch, we had to cover anyhow.
It was 9PM when we managed to reach Kullu. Had dinner over here and then proceeded towards Manali. Manali was just 40kms away. Road to Manali via Kullu valley is one of the most dangerous and also adventurous as the rocks from the mountains just hang over your head on the highway. Steep slopes and mighty Beas flowing in full valor.
It looks intriguing as well to watch the Beas river flowing beside the road in the opposite direction of our travel. Soon it started raining and we had to give a halt as we were not so used to driving in such terrain with heavy rains pouring.
After the halt, started again in half an hour. The tunnels of the highway are special treat for the riders here. HP government is planning to link these tunnels to make the route shorter to reach Manali but not all have been completed yet.
It was around midnight that we reached the Manali toll gateway. After paying the toll and mentioning the traveller details of ours, we called up Abhilash to know the hotel address and location. It started raining heavily suddenly but we managed to reach hotel and finally the hotel room.
The rest had already occupied their beds and were waiting for our arrival. We were constantly in touch over phone and they were interrogating about the bike rentals available in Manali.
Day 0 - 19th June, 2015: Location: Noida
Let me begin with the pre-tour day i.e. 19th June, 2015 where we were mentally (keeping calm with the excitement) and physically (arranging and packing stuff) preparing ourselves for the experience of a lifetime.
Myself and Ashish lived in Noida whereas the rest 4 of us (Abhilash, Abhishek, Gaurav and Sabir) were flying from Bangalore to Delhi to start the trip. They arrived in the morning. The enthusiasm to reach the highest motorable road was already glaring in everyone's eyes.
Myself and Abhishek were travelling by bikes from Noida itself and will join others in Manali. The rest had booked a bus to Manali where they would pick the bikes on rent and we shall proceed further together. Ashish, Abhilash, Gaurav and Sabir had to catch a bus at 8PM on the eve of Day 0 and will reach Manali the next morning 9'ish.
My ride - Lola - Bajaj Pulsar 200 NS
I would be riding on my Pulsar 200NS while Abhishek would rride a rented bike. In the afternoon, Myself and Abhishek went to pick the bike (Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350, 2014 model) from StoneheadBikes from Lakshmi Nagar, Delhi. After thorough checks documents verification, the owner explained us the guidelines we need to follow on the tour to safeguard our journey from any mishaps and enjoy the ride without any hiccups.
Bike getting ready for the trip at StoneheadBikes
Abhishek's ride for the trip - The Royal Enfield Thunderbird 350
After verifying the checklist and testing the bike, we came back home, excited even more. Every accomplishment was testifying how wonderful the trip is going to be.
Then I started with my packing. The rest had already left to catch the bus for Manali. We would meet them the next day in Manali.
You must include these items necessarily for Leh bike trip:
Tail/rear luggage/bag
Riding Jacket
Winter jackets
Inner warm wears
Gloves (both summer and winter)
Riding Shoes
Knee and Elbow Guards
Winter caps
Bungee cords
Balaclava
Puncture Kit
Medics (include tabs for AMS - acute mountain sickness)
Extension board
Clothes and Towels (keep as light as possible)
All the gears and stuff for the trip, everything will go inside that Viaterra Claw (bottom center)
Gears for the riders
The accessories had been bought, the riding gears had been set, the bags had been packed, the friends and family folks had been informed, and finally the alarm for 4 A.M. next morning was set (in case we sleep tonight :P ).
